Pen pals in Tunisia

A single message from a Tunisian pen pal might start in Tunisian Arabic, borrow a French word or two halfway through, and end in English for your benefit. Switching between languages is ordinary here, and it is one of the most interesting things to ask about. Standard Arabic is the official language and is used in schools, government and the news. At home and with friends people speak Tunisian Arabic, often called Derja or Tounsi, which differs a good deal from the Arabic in textbooks. French is widely used in education, business and daily life, and many younger Tunisians are increasingly comfortable in English.

In parts of the south, including the island of Djerba, some communities still speak Amazigh (Berber) varieties, though they are now spoken by relatively few people.

Green north, desert south

Many people picture Tunisia as all sand. The Sahara does cover much of the south, but the north is Mediterranean: hills, wheat fields, olive groves and citrus, with hot, dry summers and mild, sometimes rainy winters. Tunis, Bizerte and the coastal towns of the Sahel feel very different from oasis towns in the south. It is a small country by African standards, but one pen pal's Tunisia can be quite unlike another's, so ask where they live and what it looks like out of the window.

How the week and the year run

Tunisia keeps a Saturday and Sunday weekend, so if you live in Europe your free days will usually line up. The school year starts in mid-September and runs into June, with the long break over the summer.

Some dates to know:

• Ramadan is the month of daytime fasting observed by most Tunisians. Daily rhythms change: evenings get busier and the meal at sunset, iftar, becomes the centre of the day.
• Eid al-Fitr marks the end of Ramadan, and Eid al-Adha follows about two months later. Both follow the Islamic lunar calendar, so they move about eleven days earlier each year.
• Independence Day, 20 March, marks independence from France in 1956.

If your letters cross during Ramadan, it is thoughtful to ask how it is going rather than assume your pen pal's routine is the same as usual.

Language learning both ways

Tunisia is a good place to find a pen pal if you are learning French or Arabic. Do be aware that Derja and the Arabic you learn in class are not the same thing; a pen pal can explain which words are local and which would be understood across the Arab world. In the other direction, many Tunisians are keen to practise English, so you can set up a fair swap. Learning one greeting helps: "Aslema" is a friendly Tunisian hello.

First questions

• Which languages do you use in a normal day, and with whom?
• What does your family eat to break the fast during Ramadan?
• What is your town known for within Tunisia?
• Where do you go in summer?

International post can be slow, so many pen pals keep the conversation online and send postcards on special occasions. For more on writing across languages and customs, see our guide to writing across cultures.